Get it? It is "spec'd" because it is so often spec'd.ĬBU's sole purpose is to decouple tile from wood, period. Read up on that at the thinset manufacturers' web sites.ĭon't think that CBU is needed absolutely. Scoring the top of the ply and soaking latex additive into the scratches first, before thinsetting, ensures adhesion. You'll get some other ideas if you visit more reason to use Kerdi or paintable trowelable membrane that comes in a paint can. Wood can work, tile works, and if you use stone, you can have the edges polished and or bullnosed. One of the harder things to sometimes come to grips with is finishing the edges. You paint this stuff on, then can tile over it once it is cured. Another thing that works is Redgard, also available at HD and tile stores by Custom Building Products. You can also use a membrane like Ditra (available at HD in small rolls) which is waterproof if you seal the seams with the Kerdiband. The cement board is not really structural in this instance, so the thinner stuff works well. You might want to waterproof those edges in case any water leaks under the rim. But, yes, if it is a dropin, then tile to the edge of the rough opening so that the sink will both fit and cover the raw edges. There are some sinks that are designed to be tiled in and typically are square so you don't have to deal with curves when laying the tile up next to it (these are typically cast iron sinks). You want more ply than 1/2".some people use two layers of 3/4"! Keep in mind that it would not be unheard of to have kids or even adults climb up onto the countertop on occasion to do things like finish painting the wall, get that last bit out of the highest shelf, etc.ĭepends on the sink you choose best how to do it.
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